After nearly three years of anticipation, I finally made my visit to Sepi and here I am writing to share my brief experience in this village. Sepi is a small hamlet in the Darjeeling district, located in the Eastern Himalayan Range. It is accessible through a short hike from Rimbick through the Singalila Forest, famously known as the Black Forest Trail.
I had my stay at Haven Farm, a homely farm stay run by Daniel Da and Maren from Darjeeling, with local assistance from Nirmal Bubu and Bhauju. Due to my earlier commitment as a teacher, my visit to Sepi was long overdue as it never seemed to work out, or as it goes in Nepali, "Kailey Judena". However, life has a way to work things out at the right time because strangely, this time it worked ("Judeo") when I left my job, had no plans, and was aspiring to become a research scholar. The wait indeed, was for me to visit Sepi with a purpose.
Despite not being an ideal season due to the onset of monsoon and amidst "Asaar Pandra", I was, however, fortunate enough to walk the forest trail almost dry. When I arrived at Haven Farm in the late afternoon, it was quite misty and cold, but a hot served lunch and a cozy tent were awaiting me.
Although my stay was a short one- for merely three days, the place captured my heart. It felt both fleeting and everlasting at the same time. I enjoyed helping Bhauju cook, and in the evenings, we would sit by the fire with some Tongba (a local millet-based alcoholic beverage), Aago ma poleko choila (Newari smoked buff dish), and narratives from Nirmal Bubu.
However, my main purpose for visiting Sepi was to gain an insight into the folk medicine practices in the village. Daniel Da, my courteous host, introduced me to a family of local herbal medicine practitioners. The two brothers, Mr. Harka Bahadur Rai (elder) and Mr. Dil Bahadur Rai (younger), aged around 65 and 59 respectively, have been practicing herbal medicine for almost three generations. We met the younger of two brothers, locally referred to as Dilu Bubu. In Sepi, being mainly a Rai-populated village, a common endearment they add is "Bubu" after the name of every male member, affectionately referring to them as Brother.
Their grandfather, the Late Mr. Doshman Rai, was a renowned Jhankri (Shaman). He is called a Bhuifutwa (God-gifted) as he is believed to have received a calling to follow this path. The knowledge and skills of herbal medicine were passed down through the generations by working alongside their fathers. Dil Bahadur Rai mentioned that his elder brother is more engaged in these practices than he is. On being asked if it is mandatory to carry on the family's legacy, he replied saying - "afnui khusi ho", meaning it is one's own will. His son, a civic police in Lodhoma, also shows great interest in herbal medicine. Besides his medicinal practice, Dil Bahadur engages himself in carpentry, farming, and dairy. He says that healing people for them is an act of Dharma or Seva (service) but would also accept any offerings given to them as a token of appreciation.
However, as we delve deeper, it becomes evident that these practices involve more challenges than one perceives initially. The plants are typically sourced from high-altitude locations such as Kanchenjunga Base Camp, Dudh Pokhari, Lakshmi Pokhari, and Bakthang in Sikkim, as well as Phidim in Nepal, which provides an ideal climate for their growth. Harvesting in Sikkim takes place between August and November, where they set off in groups for several days. However, some places are imposing restrictions which makes it difficult for them to bring these herbs.
These plants include varieties, the common ones being Padamchaal, Abhijal, Harchur, Bhutkesh, Khokim, Kafal, and Kutka, which are used to treat a wide range of ailments such as sinus issues, piles, gout, colds, pneumonia, and fractures. According to Dil Bahadur, folk medicine is particularly effective against jaundice and, he claims, can even cure early-stage cancer. He cites a case of an individual from Sikkim who was cured of liver cancer using herbal medicine. It is also due to the limited accessibility of modern healthcare facilities in the nearest reach, the people of Sepi often turn to the Rai brothers for treatment of common illnesses. However, Mr. Dil Bahadur mentioned that they also receive visitors from distant locations, such as Darjeeling and Sikkim, seeking herbal remedies. Additionally, they travel to places like Bijanbari, Kolbung, Pattabong, Noor, Deythang, and others places upon request to provide healing services.
Despite modern challenges, the commitment to preserve and practice herbal medicine in Sepi remains strong and it offers a fascinating glimpse into a world where ancient knowledge meets modern-day resilience. The harmonious blend of nature and community in Sepi creates an irresistible allure. It feels as though an invisible string ties you to this place, compelling you to keep coming back and learn more. So, until next time.
About the writer:
Shradha Bhitrikothy is a sociologist and a former school teacher hailing from Siliguri, originally from Darjeeling. She aspires to become a research scholar focusing to explore the ethnic Himalayan cultures, communities, and folk medicine practices to create meaningful impact through her academic pursuits. She is also an active member of an NGO named Save Earth for Life.
Her interests include hiking, trekking, painting, and she actively engages herself in social service and environmental causes.
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